Ciaran Goes To Rabbit

Art & Culture

The idea of going to a restaurant which was in the heart of Kensington & Chelsea was a bit a of a daunting prospect for this small-town Essex boy whose history of food reviews relies very heavily upon there being some form of burger and chips on the menu. However, within an instant of entering the very homely feel of Rabbit any fears that I may have had about not quite being in the right place were swiftly assuaged as I stepped into their cottage-turned-kitchen situated halfway down King's Road.

As Rabbit is built on a family relationship – three brothers spread the responsibilities of the different aspects of the business – the feeling of being accepted into a home once you enter shouldn't come as a surprise. We began our meal with a couple of 'daily looseners', cocktails that are (surprisingly…) changed on a daily basis and are made principally from one of an array of flavours that you'll find planted high up on shelves, patiently waiting their turn. This then, naturally, comes served in a wellington boot shaped glass to really help drive that feeling of everything being fresh from the farm. The atmosphere was pleasant, the cocktails were expertly blended so the only thing left to judge would have to be the food.

With a long and varied menu held in our hands, my feasting companion and I went for the rather organised option of ordering something from each heading on the menu. This meant that we kicked off with a 'mouthful' each, as a big lover of all flavours from the sea I opted for a crab bomb which managed to be a creamy delight yet didn't lose any of the subtle crustacean flavour. One of the real strengths of the ordering process is that there's very little chance of you ever having a long wait between courses and, thanks in no small part to the expertly-judged portion sizes, it's fairly easy to sample plenty of the different flavours without feeling like you've overdone it.

My absolute highlight of the menu was the chorizo, pictured above, as it was paired wonderfully with labneh and kale to provide your mouth with all sorts of delicious textures. There was no skimping on the portion either, I've rarely been handed so much chorizo on a plate – though the question of whether or not I'd be able to finish it all was never truly in doubt. I also managed to 'borrow' a slither of my companion's portion of grouse which was delicately cooked and contained a smoky flavour on the skin that had me questioning my own dining choices. Still, I was able to get my portion of chips in – albeit succulent lamb chips with a harissa sauce that could make eating even burnt toast feel like a treat – before moving on to a smattering of grilled pork which, when presented so beautifully on a bed of scrumptious vegetables, tasted like the perfect end to the savoury part of the meal.

Finally my sweet tooth kicked in and, having spotted the words 'white chocolate' on the menu almost instantly, I was treated to a gorgeous mousse which came equipped with a smooth splash of cherry and chunks of baked white chocolate that are sure to linger long in my memory.

Despite any scepticism I may have had about exactly where I was eating, I could have absolutely no complaints at all as every last detail was seen to by the team at Rabbit and each individual course was prepared to perfection. I might even have to go back there some time.

Rabbit is at 172 King's Road, Chelsea – find out more here.